Protests in Bangkok & the Media

May 18th, 2010

I feel I must apologize to all you sweet folks back home for our lack of communication during the remainder of our Thailand adventure. With the protests and ensuing violence in Bangkok (and the media's success in blowing it completely out of proportion) there's no wonder that you guys began to worry when the blogs stopped coming! But I can assure you that we are safe. We've been hanging out in paradise in southern Thailand (with little to no internet connection) and having the time of our lives!

(Over the course of the next few days, I will be updating the blog with our excursions in Chiang Mai and the islands....)

But back to it...

Both times we traveled through Bangkok, we never encountered any inkling of the turmoil. Aside from the sporadic red flag flapping behind a local's scooter -indicating it's owner's protest of the Thai government and support of the red shirts (followers of Thaksin Shinawarta, the ousted mega-millionaire former Prime Minister who is now in exile in Cambodia), we would have had no idea that there was any unrest at all. In their sensationalized reports, what the media fails to include is that Bangkok is comparable in size to the city of Los Angeles, and although we hear that the conflict is slowly spreading, it has been previously isolated to a few blocks. The city was never evacuated (as we heard on one news channel while we were in Phuket) and the Bangkok airport was never closed down (an untruth claimed by the media that caused tons of international tourists to cancel their trips).

This isn't to say that there is not real violence occurring in Bangkok. There have been lives lost and many people injured and displaced in that area of the city. But after traveling from the top of Thailand to the bottom, and speaking with so many locals who are seriously struggling from the blow to their country's tourism, it is difficult to not feel frustrated about the sensationalized reports (and in some cases blatant untruths) being spread globally by the media.

With that being said, we just wanted everyone to know that we are safe and that we appreciate all of your concern. We've made it back to Atlanta and I am writing this sitting comfortably at my desk in my office at home. As I begin to sort through all the photographs, I will get them posted asap!

Lots of love from the Burbridges...

Muay Thai

Instead of a first night shnazzy-big-city-dinner, we opted to wander deep into the heart of Bangkok to catch a traditional Muay Thai match at Lumpinee Stadium. The main event of the evening was a bout between two famous Thai fighters and somehow, we lucked out and were able to find ring side seats. A Muay Thai boxing match is an experience unlike any other. You can feel the energy pulsing through the stadium and around the ring before the matches even begin. The Thai fighters seemed to be surprisingly young and entered the ring draped in tropical florals, circling each other and preforming a ceremonial dance before bowing to each of the four corners in prayer. The incredible heat that pervades this country only seemed to fuel the intensity of the evening and their muscular, taut bodies were glistening with sweat before the fighting even began. The fighters began to circle each other and the beating of the traditional Thai drums pulsed through the crowd while a single Thai flute rang loud and clear, both increasing in pace and intensity as the fight progressed. The fighters lunged and attacked like tigers, wearing masks of pure aggression while the crowd would scream in unison at each kick or punch, the roar vibrating the whole stadium. Each explosive blow created sprays of sweat and blood that shimmered in the light. Needless to say, Oteil was beside himself with excitement! We witnessed one "knock out" and the fighter was carried out of the ring, completely unconscious, on a stretcher.

The Grand Palace

Our first morning's excursion in Bangkok to the King's former residence, The Grand Palace, was an outstanding start to our Thai adventure. Oteil and I were both astounded by the oppressive heat and humidity here. I was amazed that the sun's intensity surpasses that of Africa, which is really saying something. Your clothes are drenched in sweat in a matter of 10 minutes. Indeed, it is truly the land of 5 showers a day if you try to uphold your accustomed standard of comfort.

Nonetheless, we were thrilled to be exploring the tropical flower laden streets of Bangkok, a city that is a peculiar blend of ancient culture and the best of Asian technology. Bangkok assaults your senses like no city I've ever experienced. Walking the busy streets, your path weaves through diminutive Thai vendors aggressively hawking their wares. The air is thick with the exotic smell of simmering spices mixed with the scent of burning incense. The tinkling of Thai bells resonate from every rooftop and somehow ring through the bustle of the big city. Buddhist monks, barefoot and draped in bright orange swathes of fabric, scurry through the streets on their way to and from the myriad temples peppering Bangkok. Exotic tropical plants thrive in the bright sunlight and fill the streets with a stunning show of fiery pinks, oranges, yellows and reds. The plants seem to competitively grow into otherworldly sizes, creating a horticulturist's fantasy land. I can't help but think about how our mothers would delight in the beauty of the Thai's native fauna.

We traveled to the Grand Palace via a water "bus" that runs the length of the Chao Phraya river, carrying locals and tourists alike through the city of Bangkok. From the river we walked several blocks in the heat before stopping to purchase paper parasols to shield our skin from the scorching sun. After squeezing through rows and rows of street vendors, we rounded the corner to see the Grand Palace stretched out before us in all of it's ornate glory. I have to admit that once we were inside the walls, I found it a bit difficult to photograph because we were completely overwhelmed by the amount of gilded detail, you simply didn't know where to start. The entire compound was beyond impressive, truly a king's stomping grounds. The Grand Palace is still a destination for practicing Buddhists to come to meditate and give offerings. After removing our shoes, we quietly slipped into the back of a temple to witness the show of devotion. Monks of all ages knelt in reverence and filled the temple with deep guttural chanting that echoed off the gilded walls and made the hair on our arms stand straight up. The Buddhist men and women filled the temple, their arms piled high with exotic flower offerings, and one by one, they dropped to their knees and lowered their heads to the colorful mosaic floor in reverence of their Buddha.

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Remember you can click on the images to make them larger!

I am in SIAM

11:30pm Bangkok time

We are staying in an absolutely stunning hotel, The Mandarin Oriental (thanks for the recommendation Derek!). When Oteil and I walked into the lobby tonight, we both stopped short, our mouths agape. I've never seen such an impressive hotel interior. It's no wonder it was voted the best hotel in the world for multiple years in Travel and Leisure. Situated overlooking the Chao Phraya River in an area of the city famous for it's Asian antiques, we will certainly be scouring the streets tomorrow for special treasures. Also on the agenda: a visit to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha), a dinner cruise along the river to check out Bangkok's myriad temples lit up in all of their nighttime glory, and hopefully, if we can squeeze it in, a Muay Thai boxing match!

8:00am Bangkok

After doing a little reading up on Thai culture, we've discovered a few important "Do's and Don'ts" that visitors should adhere to to avoid behaving offensively. One should never touch the heads of Thais (not even the children). Women especially should never touch a Buddhist monk. In Thailand, the feet are considered the dirtiest part of the body and you are never to sit with the bottoms of your feet facing anyone, particularly pointed towards an image of Buddha. (That would explain why the Thai gentlemen across the aisle from me on the airplane stared at me when my bare feet were propped up on the armrest.. oops!) The king's anthem is played twice a day, at 8am and 6pm, and one is expected to stand during this time, wherever you may be. Although the monarchy lost it's power in 1932, the Thai king, Rama IX (the longest reigning monarch in Thai history) is still immensely popular and remains a beloved figure to the Thai people.

The more we read about the city last night, the more excited we became. It will be a feat to pack in all of the amazing sights and experiences today. I'll leave you with Oteil's words "Man, we are SO in the coolest place on Earth!"

Off to explore the city...

Love from the Burbridges!